Ermenegildo Zegna Couture

By Adam Tuesday 29th Jul, 2014

Entry by Tom Jones. Follow @Jones219T

Ermenegildo Zegna Couture’s new Spring/Summer collection attempts to blend ‘the formal with the sportswear’. Although doesn’t sound like a great premise, it is well worked; this new collection manages to avoid the classic catwalk cliché of producing clothes far too ridiculous to ever wear anywhere else but the catwalk. There is one major, huge concern for me, however. As you’ll no doubt notice from the photo below, one of the models was wearing socks. With sandals.

One thing this show did do quite well was juxtapose the simple with the stylish. There were many examples of pairing either a simple top with more creatively designer trousers (or vice-versa) and also many examples of a simple top being paired with a great-looking jacket or coat. This is something we are seeing more and more of in the street, with ordinary but style-conscious guys buying jackets to put over their t-shirts. This new collection captures that style perfectly.

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Probably the most striking thing about this new collection is the new jackets on offer; there are some really different riffs on traditional coats and jackets, not just in terms of the colours but also of the cut. The jacket below, for instance, has a very unusual cut – instead of having the cut curve to the bottom of the jacket, the buttons continue to the bottom of the garment. When conjoined with the more conventional cut of the rest of the jacket, it makes for a rather fetching jacket. One thing about this new collection is it’s very cool. Nothing looks forced or uncomfortable, everything hangs off the models stylishly (as it should), everything has a certain panache that screams European design. These are clothes that if you wore in an English town, you wouldn’t look so out of place that you’d become not cool but a sore thumb, but ones that you’d fit right in whist raising a few eyebrows at the same time.

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The general air I get of this new collection is that it is trying to market itself to that slightly older casual dresser. They’ve gone past wearing just designer t-shirts and they want something smarter to wear with it; jackets from this collection fit perfectly. They are casual enough to wear with trainers or to casual Fridays without letting the side down. This new line hasn’t rocked the world, but it has provided a new alternative to the man who looks to dress down when he dresses up.