dunhill AW16

By Adam Monday 25th Jan, 2016

This season dunhill presents the finest traditions of English gentlemanly dressing, a complete wardrobe updated to accommodate contemporary demands.

MOTORITIES

Protective, hand-engineered pieces informed by dunhill’s expertise in creating ‘everything but the motor’. Warm, durable leather coats lined in rich shearling; driving blousons in British racing green; a leather driving topcoat in chestnut goatskin bonded with cashmere directly inspired by one from the dunhill archive. The sturdy unlined sheepskin jacket once favoured by English motor-racing superstars is reconfigured with the shearling seams kept on the interior, cutting a more subtle silhouette on the outside. A key piece is a generously cut jersey cashmere-lined car coat made from soft glove leather in a shifting shade of deep blue. Knitwear is in luxuriant six ends of Scottish cashmere, Aran patterned and traditionally cable stitched. Neck detailing recalls the protective under-snoods worn by racing-car drivers in the 1950s layered in lightweight silk cashmere. Sweaters have the long-tail stripe inspired by the dunhill logo as a signature feature on the neck ribbing. Jeans are cut from a specially-woven hardwearing Japanese selvedge denim dyed a beautifully matt dark blue.

These robust pieces are teamed with polka-dots accessories such as fine wool silk scarves whose finely textured surfaces contrast the buff skins of the coats.

COUNTRY WEEKEND

Clothes for recreation featuring softer silhouettes and luxury blend fabrics. Alpaca cashmere cardigan-soft sports jackets in light brushed tweed wools are liberated from the structuring elements traditionally used in the shoulders. Velvets and corduroys are resplendent with the faded charm of favoured old cords that have been repeatedly washed and worn over decades. Casual shirts come in corduroy and fade-to-grey checks. Warm, earthy ochre colours contrast with cool blues. Big, blanket-heavy tartan scarves are traditionally woven in Scotland. The dunhill driving-loafer features a distinctive engine-turn tread on the sole and a fringed kiltie tongue. The style is interpreted in a more structured suede loafer with a chiselled toe redolent of the style favoured by Edward VIII.

BLAZERS

The blazer, a dunhill signature. The new silhouette offering for blazers is broadened with cross generational fits that include both a classically structured shoulder, a rounded more English style shoulder and lastly a completely unstructured relaxed shoulder for a less formal occasion. Recreated in an array of rich fabrications including the finest airbrushed double-faced cashmere, doing away with the need for linings.

FORMAL ATTIRE

Whilst adhering to the best of traditional tailoring practices suiting cuts are softer, more relaxed in their contours and slightly shorter in the body. The British Warm overcoat, based on civilian re-appropriation of officers’ greatcoats worn in the First World War, is reinvented in a new lighter form using double-faced cashmere woven in the UK and dyed to match the unique specifications of the British Warm colour. Trousers are cut with generous British forward-facing pleats and cuffed hems. Shirt cottons are woven on 120-year-old English looms in humidity-controlled environments to ensure the highest quality of cloth.

EVENINGWEAR

dunhill display correct dressing for the occasion, whether that’s the red carpet or a grand black-tie dinner. Smoking jackets are crafted in exquisite velvet whose pile is specially hand-cut by one of the last masters of the craft in Japan; the process is time-consuming but creates a more dense, even nap on the cloth. Colours include a rich, inky midnight blue and smoky, faded salmon. Black barathea trousers have a more generous width of grosgrain in the side seam. Black dress pumps are finished with a hand-tied bow.

FOOTWEAR & LUGAGGE

Traditional British shoes such as the Oxford and the Derby are placed on a double-thickness sole for winter; leather uppers include those with a cross-hatched texture and are highly polished on the toe. Boots include the military-inspired George, tailored to withstand city winters, and a classic Chelsea with a sturdier sole. All are made in England. dunhill also continues to make a very British bag in its factory in Walthamstow. Each bag bench-made, meaning its construction is completed from start to finish by the same craftsman. The bags feature the sturdier, more masculine profile traditionally favoured in Britain. The styles this season include substantial briefcases in a variety of sizes, the diplomat-style Wolseley bag, made using vegetable-tanned English bridle leather and dunhill signature holdalls, Duke and Boston, in exotic and vegetable-tanned English leather.

Visit: dunhill