“So much of what I do is led by drawing; if something looks good on paper it usually looks good in real life,” says Christopher Kane. “I had started with the idea of ‘flip book’ pages in the women’s Autumn-Winter collection, where the pages themselves were built into dresses – this had started as a drawing. I liked the idea so much I wanted to do more with it. In the men’s collection the ‘pages’ are scattered and are the basis for the graphic prints. Besides this illustrated quality, with lots of contrasting graphic lines, there are neon colours – I go back to them again and again – while the prints have been expanded into the tailoring and outerwear for the first time.”
With its signature graphic thrust, the men’s collection explores this graphic sensibility more completely than ever for Spring-Summer 2015. With its abstracted, ‘page turning’ prints, metamorphosing and subverting traditional pinstripes, the collection concentrates on a decorative element without sacrificing structure. Tailoring features precision cutting and traditional motifs in the form of nipped in waist jackets and peaked lapels, with a concentration on the new cut of trousers. At the same time, bold prints and patterns extend from signature sweaters, shirts and t-shirts to the tailoring and new, reversible outerwear for the first time.
Silhouettes are layered with contrasting graphics, where bold linear patterns predominate. Checkerboard and harlequin knits are found in the shape of sporty polo shirts. A strong sense of colour, particularly neon yellow, deep blue and vivid red, is contrasted against black.
Fabric experimentation continues in the collection, with the natural contrasted against the artificial. New matte washes feature on jeans in the collection, with a concentration on a new cut. Textured wool jacquards run through suiting and outerwear, with ultra- fine cashmere-cotton knits and light summer silk shirting. Reflective techno fabric is used in coats, while new bonded prints with metallic foils are found as a recurring motif on sweaters.
A full leather goods line is introduced for men for the first time this season. Bags feature in simple, graphic shapes, in the colours of this season, with the Christopher Kane ‘safety buckle’ fastening – originating from the designer’s very first collection.
Altogether, it makes this season’s offering the most complete masculine wardrobe by the designer to date.