Straight from Saville Row – Hardy Amies S/S’14 Menswear Collection
Located at No.14 Saville Row are the London tailors Hardy Amies.
Sir Hardy Amies was an authority on British menswear, understanding the rules of dressing yet maintaining a sharp eye on modernity and the city dweller around him. This legacy is respected for Spring Summer 2014 as well as the brand’s roots on Savile Row. Tailoring is at the foundation of the collection, supported by lightweight outerwear, loose knits and casual shirting accompanied by English accessories.
Their Spring/ Summer 2014 menswear collection presents a complete summer wardrobe for a modern London lifestyle and one to share with our fellow Dapper Chapper’s.
Inspiration for the collection began with Saul Bass references unearthed in the Hardy Amies archives. The designer famed for his film artwork, created Amies’ fragrance advertising and an ‘HA’ monogram in the late 1950s. The season’s designs and colour palette are influenced by Bass’ film artwork including ‘The Man With The Golden Arm’ and the opening sequence for Hitchcock’s ‘Psycho’. The latter is directly translated into summer striped fabrics developed exclusively by British mill William Bliss which appear on unstructured summer jackets as well as holdalls and totes by Chapman, an English bag company.
Further referencing Bass and 50s graphic design, colour blocking is mixed with bold or broken lines. Taking inspiration from the spirit of Hardy Amies, this confident style is complemented by a refreshed take on how to wear formalwear. A grey check single-breasted suit is accompanied by a contrast gingham shirt and casual outerwear, whilst an evening jacket is worn with a subtle check trouser.
House colours of French navy and bone grey are used throughout the collection with accents of fiery red, and molten orange. Summer fabrics include basket weave hopsacks featuring in outerwear and as high twist tropical weaves in tailoring. Casual cotton outerwear and chinos are garment dyed and luxurious Pima cottons and wool linen silk blends are included within lightweight knits and jacketing.
Accessories include shoes made in Northampton, England. Suede double monks and loafers are by Alfred Sargent and a newly commissioned collection of canvas based formal shoes are made by Grenson. Each complement the colour palette of the collection in sand, vintage cherry or powder grey. Ties and pocket squares include a replication of the Bass ‘HA’ monogram as well as 50s influenced graphic stripes.
“Working on Savile Row we are immersed in antiquated techniques and craftsmanship which serve as constant references in our ready to wear. However, we are as much inspired by this as by influences from the constant change and diversity in London itself” Mehmet Ali, Design Director.